Plasterboard & Drylining: The Basics

1What is Drylining?

Drylining is a construction method that uses plasterboard (drywall) to form interior walls and ceilings without the need for traditional wet plaster. It is faster to install, lighter, and easier to achieve a flat, paint-ready finish. Almost all modern commercial and residential construction uses drylining.

2Types of Plasterboard

Not all plasterboard is the same. Choosing the right type for your application is essential:

• Standard wallboard — basic plasterboard for general-purpose lining of walls and ceilings.
• Moisture-resistant (green board) — for bathrooms, kitchens, and other damp areas. Not a waterproof membrane by itself.
• Fire-resistant (pink / Type F) — contains glass fibre for improved fire performance; used in corridors, stairwells, and compartment walls.
• Acoustic board — higher-density board that reduces sound transmission. Used in party walls and between rooms.
• Thermal laminate board — plasterboard bonded to a layer of rigid insulation for dry-lining external walls.

3Metal Stud Partitions

Metal stud (steel frame) partitioning is the standard method for non-loadbearing internal walls. Horizontal floor and ceiling channels (C channels) are fixed first, then vertical studs are inserted at 600mm centres. The boards are then screw-fixed to both sides, with insulation and services run within the cavity.

4Board Layouts & Setting Out

Boards are typically hung vertically in 2400 x 1200mm sheets. Stagger vertical joints between layers where a double-board system is used. Ensure all board edges fall on a stud — never leave a free edge unsupported. Mark stud positions on the floor and ceiling before boarding to avoid guessing screw positions.

5Screw Fixing

Use drywall screws (self-tapping) at 150mm centres at edges and 300mm centres in the field. The screw head should sit just below the surface of the board without breaking through the paper face — a drywall screwdriver with a depth stop makes this easy. Countersunk screws are then filled during taping.

6Taping & Jointing

The tape-and-joint (or skim) system produces a smooth, seamless surface. Apply jointing compound (or a skim coat of finishing plaster) to all screw heads, joints, and internal angles. Embed paper or fibreglass tape in the joints, feather out with wide spatulas, and allow to dry fully between coats. Two or three coats are typically needed for a high-quality finish.

7Fire Stopping & Acoustic Sealing

Gaps around penetrations (pipes, cables, ductwork) must be fire-stopped with intumescent material. Perimeter gaps between the partition and structure should be sealed with acoustic mastic to prevent sound flanking. These details are often overlooked on site but are essential for meeting Part E and Part B requirements.